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Kham, East Tibet
The news was shocking!
The ticket agent at the Shangri-la bus terminal in Zhongdian, Yunnan province was happy to tell me over and over, in both Chinese and English, that yes, foreigners can now travel east through the Tibet Autonomous Region to Lhasa … overland and without a permit! I really couldn’t believe what I was hearing, but rather than falling down in rapture, I agonized over taking advantage of this new policy or continuing as planned on my already-paid-for, government-authorized, one-week tour across Kham to Lhasa. Ultimately, it would have been silly for me not to choose the latter.
The decade-old Land Cruiser was in surprisingly good condition, having driven through Tibet 99 times. We set out through northern Yunnan to the crags of Feilaisi, finding ourselves at a dizzying 4,000 meters above sea level and nauseously breathless, to stay overnight at a roadside pilgrimage site of sun-bleached chortens, wind-tattered prayer flags and a stunning view of Mingyong Glacier.
Bright (a light so bright it was hard to believe) and early the next morning, we continued into undulating hills. Vistas of incomparable beauty revealed themselves with each bend. The forest was a tapestry of earthy shades, in orange, purple, browns and greens, both light and dark. With the iridescent blue sky and cottony white clouds above us, we traced perilous dirt switchbacks whose collapsing shoulders threatened to toss us hundreds of meters below into the Mekong River; it looked peaceful enough from above, its banks and farmland dotted with eye-catching, whitewashed adobe homes that seemed to beckon us into Tibet.
“Xizang!” our driver called out. In fact we had been in Tibet for half a day, but how could we know without having crossed any sort of border or being stopped by officials asking to see our papers? We had to remind ourselves that entering Eastern Tibet was now a permit-less process and all the checkpoints on our maps and guidebooks were recently abandoned. We celebrated our unbeknownst entry into the TAR (Tibetan Autonomous Region) by spending the day in the small, dusty city of Markham. Winding down from its weekend market, the city was brimming with the splendor of the traditional Khampas population: golden-skinned women with their long striped dresses and colorful plaits, and large-sized men with lengthy braided hair woven with red Chamdo tassels and a solid jade hoop. We were greeted by dozens of red-cheeked, runny-nosed children dancing around us. My European traveling companions were constantly surrounded by a crowd of curious adults, who took turns running their fingers along the thick blonde leg hairs, then letting out a collective fascinated murmur.
Traveling through Eastern Tibet can be compared with experiencing the four seasons in just a matter of days. While we started with clear skies and venerable forests, the next morning took us into icy tundra. Ascending 99 bends into the Hengduan Range, the mountains seemed to freeze over before our eyes. At 5,008 meters we reached the highest altitude of our trip.
At the bleak Dongdola pass we encountered a settlement of nomadic shepherds (drokpas) living in black tents while herds of emaciated yak-cows grazed the surrounding frozen pastures. These gentle people of an inhospitable land were dressed in simple hand-woven attire, but they were extravagantly accessorized in coral, turquoise and silver jewelry. These shepherds had seen few white faces in their lifetime. One drokpa family had yet to see a digital camera and they were mesmerized by the sight of their own images on the LCD screen.
At Pomda, a noise-polluted junction of logging trucks and tractors, we met a bunch of international backpackers and hardcore cyclists sitting at the literal crossroads that connects the northern route of the busy Sichuan-Tibet highway with the less-traveled southern roads. From there, our journey took us through and down into verdant terraced hamlets and patchwork plots of land fed by snow springs, over the Salween River to the unbelievably mint-blue twin lakes of Rawoktso. Dodging Kham’s morning traffic of goats, lamb and yak-cows (yes, cross-bred), we pressed on along the boulder-strewn road of the Sundzom Valley, past the Parlung Tsangpo white water rapids and old avalanches of frozen snow to Tongmei, where we encountered our first real obstacle.
Rumors had been circulating amongst the backpackers we’d been meeting on the road about a downed bridge at the Brahmaputra and Parlung Tsangpo convergence, which would prevent anyone from continuing on to Lhasa. It turned out the bridge was fine but a landslide on the other side had literally wiped the road off the sheermountain face. Anyone wanting to continue on had to either nimbly navigate a narrow footpath or wait a week or longer.
So it was here that we said goodbye to our Land Cruiser and crossed the bridge to meet another driver. The organizer of our trip told us via cellphone from his cozy office in Kunming that the new driver would be waiting “just a short walk” from the landslide. It turned out to be an arduous four-hour hike up a treacherous mountain path above the Rongchu gorge, in the dark of night, under the pouring rain of Tibet’s monsoon season. We braved the muddy slopes, deftly crossing washouts and literally dodging falling rocks from above, before finally arriving at a construction workers’ tent made from a giant nylon bag. The Israeli and British backpackers decided to stay while my companions and I trekked onward, in search of our new driver.
With our new vehicle and driver, we headed onwards toward Lhasa. Passing vivid fields of yellow youcai flowers, we arrived at the famous Draksumtso, an azure lake and lush Alpine forest which would have been breathtaking had it not been for the sea of baseball cap-wearing tour groups – the isolated beauty of Eastern Tibet was behind us.
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About the Author
TOM CARTER is the author of ‘CHINA: Portrait of a People,’ a definitive 600-page book of photography due out winter 2007 from Hong Kong publisher Blacksmith Books.
Uncharted 2 treasures Tibetan Silver Earring
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61” tibet real silver gold gem crystal buddhism jar $141,000.00 |
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39″Tibet Pure Silver Gold turquoise Gem Three Kwan-Yin $99,000.00 |
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Heavy 43” 100% crystal inlay gem silver carvings tibet sacred energy Aquarius $90,000.00 |
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100% crystal inlay silver turquoise coral gem tibet buddhism skull head kapala $80,000.00 |
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Tibet 100% silver gold turquoise coral handwork buddha the buddhism jar 13” $75,200.00 |
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Old 36″ China Tibet silver gilt gemmy gem 4 arm turquoise Kwan-yin and two TARA $75,000.00 |
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tibet silver 24K gold gem turquoise buddha Chenrezig and manjusri Mandala statue $68,000.00 |
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27 Inch Huge Old China Tibet crystal inlay silver gem death’s-head KAPALA statue $65,000.00 |
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16″Tibet Pure Silver Dharmapala Riding a Horse Buddha $59,000.00 |
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44 Inch Huge Tibet crystal inlay silver gem exquisite stupa statues $55,000.00 |
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Wonderful Old Tibet Pure Silver Buddha Statue “Thousand-Handed-and-Eyed GuanYin” $49,999.00 |
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29” tibet 100% crystal inlay silver gem turquoise Buddhist’s skull head Kapala $49,999.00 |
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Pair 14” pure silver inlay gem carved buddha tibet sacred energy Aquarius $49,000.00 |
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heavy 29” tibet real silver gold gem crystal Buddhist’s skulls kapala $46,999.06 |
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11 Pair 14” pure silver inlay gem carved buddha tibet sacred energy Aquarius $46,060.00 |
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14″ Old China Tibet silver gild carved 8 buddha, YAMANTAKA lotus flower pagoda $45,000.00 |
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15″Tibet Buddhism Pure Silver 24K Gold lotus flower Vajrabhirava Buddha Kwan-Yin $39,999.00 |
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74″Huge Tibet Buddhism Purple Bronze Silver Stand Kwan-Yin Bodhisattva Statue $39,900.00 |
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74″Huge Tibet Buddhism Purple Bronze Silver Stand Kwan-Yin Bodhisattva Statue $39,900.00 |
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30″Tibet Crystal Silver 100% 24K Gold inlay Gem beautiful beryl pagoda $39,000.00 |
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41″Huge Tibet Bronze 24K Gold Silver Dragon Kwan-Yin $38,000.00 |
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41″Huge Tibet Buddhism Purple Bronze 100% 24K Gold Silver Dragon Kwan-Yin $38,000.00 |
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Old 19” tibet pure silver gold inlay turquoise coral carvings snuff bottle $35,720.00 |
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36″Huge Tibet Purple Bronze 24K Gold Silver eighteen Hands Guhyasamaja Buddha $35,000.00 |
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17″100% Pure Silver Gold Gem turquoise coral water jug $35,000.00 |
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Wonderful Amazing Sacred Old Tibet Buddhism Ritual Pure Silver Gem Buddha Statue $29,999.00 |
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tibet 10” pure silver inlay turquoise coral seated buddha sakyamuni statue $30,000.00 |
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14″Costful Tibet Pure Silver coral turquoise Gem Stand Dragon Kwan-Yin Pot Vase $29,999.00 |
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16″Tibet Buddhism 100% Pure Silver turquoise coral 1000 Hands Kwan-Yin Statue $29,900.00 |
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16″Costful Tibet 100% Pure Silver inlay plentiful Gem turquoise Dragon water jug $29,900.00 |
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13″Costful Tibet Lhasa Buddhism Pure Silver 24K Gold sakyamuni Buddha Statue $29,000.00 |
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19″Pure Silver blueness Stone Gem Padmasambhava Buddha $29,000.00 |
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20 Inch Huge China Tibet silver inlay gem crystal finery oblatory KAPLA bowl $29,000.00 |
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41″Tibet Buddhism Purple Bronze 24K Gold Silver Six Hands Mahakala Buddha Statue $28,800.00 |
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tibet 10” pure silver inlay turquoise coral seated buddha sakyamuni statue $28,200.00 |
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19” tibet 100% crystal inlay silver turquoise gem carvings stand sakyamuni $28,200.00 |
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46″Huge Costful crystal inlay Gem 24K Gold Silver Vase $28,000.00 |
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30″Huge China tibet silver inlay gem crystal pagoda Statues $28,000.00 |
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43″Tibet Buddhism Pure Bronze 24K Gold Silver Six-armed Mahakala Buddha Statue $25,500.00 |
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19″Costful Tibet Buddhism Pure Silver handwork inlay turquoise Gem water jug $25,500.00 |
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Old pure silver 24K gold turquoise coral handwork tibet buddhist snuff bottle $25,000.00 |
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25″Costful Tibet Worship Silver 24K Gold Gem crystal Sit Three Buddha Kan Statue $23,900.00 |
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10″Tibet Lhasa Buddhism costful Pure Silver 24K Gold Sit Maniusri Kwan-Yin $23,000.00 |
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Old 13” pure silver inlay turquoise coral gem tibet buddhism energy jar statue $22,000.00 |
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5″Costful Pure Silver Gold turquoise coral Buddha Box $22,000.00 |
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Heavy 29” tibet 100% crystal inlay silver gem gold carved buddha buddhism jar $20,680.00 |
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@Qing dy. Antique Tibet Pure Silver Copper Gau Shrine Niche Box Museum Quality@ $19,999.00 |
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tibet buddhism100% crystal buddha statue inlaid gold silver turquoise coral gem $20,000.00 |
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25″Tibet Buddhism crystal Gold Silver turquoise coral Gem Tara Kwan-Yin Statue $19,999.00 |
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29″Tibet Buddhism Purple Bronze 24K Gold Silver Sit tiger snake Mahakala Buddha $19,999.00 |
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Tibet Bronze Gold Silver 1000 Hands Guhyasamaja Buddha $19,990.00 |
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25″Costful Tibet 100% crystal Silver 24K Gold Gem turquoise carved pot Vase Pair $19,990.00 |
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Tibet Bronze Gold Silver 1000 Hands Guhyasamaja Buddha $19,990.00 |
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20″Old Lhasa Tibet Buddhism Purple Bronze Silver carved Amitayus Buddha Statue $19,990.00 |
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41″Huge Tibet Buddhism Purple Bronze 24K Gold Silver Six Hands Mahakala Buddha $19,990.00 |
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20″Old Lhasa Tibet Buddhism Purple Bronze Silver carved Amitayus Buddha Statue $19,990.00 |
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15″Costful Tibet 100% Pure Silver 24K Gold plentiful Gem eight treasure pot $19,990.00 |
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20″Tibet Purple Bronze 24K Gold Silver Nine Dragon Three sakyamuni Buddha Set $19,990.00 |
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12″Tibet Buddhism Purple Bronze 24K Gold Silver carved sakyamuni Buddha Statue $19,986.00 |
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12″Tibet Buddhism Purple Bronze 24K Gold Silver carved sakyamuni Buddha Statue $19,986.00 |
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Buddhist Altar / Candle Holders / Silver $289.99 Making offerings to me now & making offerings to me in future will produce equal merit. This is due to the blessing power of the Buddha, ordinary beings cannot understand this. In Buddhism, symbolic offerings are made to the Triple Gem, giving rise to contemplative gratitude & inspiration. Typical material offerings involve simple objects such as a lit candle, burning incense, flowers, food, fruit… |
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Exquisite Tibet Silver Teapot Exquisite Tibet Silver Teapot. Circa early 1700′s…. |
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Tibetan Singing Bowl $11.46 All products are BRAND NEW and factory sealed. Fast shipping and 100% Satisfaction Guaranteed…. |
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Tibet $11.98 … |
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Sounds of Tibet $14.99 All products are BRAND NEW and factory sealed. Fast shipping and 100% Satisfaction Guaranteed…. |
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Guardsman Furniture Touch Up Kit $2.99 Nicks, marks, scratches, the inevitable results of living with wooden furniture. But you don’t have to strip and refinish when the damage is minimal. Get out your handy touch up kit and dab the pen along the mark. There are three colors so you’ll be able to get a very convincing match easily…. |
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Chie Mihara Women’s Inme Mary Jane Pump $366.00 Classic style gets a fashionable update in Chie Mihara’s Inme maryjane pump. A chunky, stacked, flared heel and textured metallic leather upper add a contempo twist to the traditional shape and requisite strap. Dust bag and extra set of heel taps included…. |
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Chie Mihara Women’s Felice Mary Jane Pump $339.00 Classic style gets a fashionable update in Chie Mihara’s Felice maryjane. A chunky stacked heel and textured metallic leather upper add a contempo twist to the traditional shape and requisite strap. Dust bag and extra set of heel taps included…. |
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Tibet Silver Amethyst Flower Set (China) $24.99 Add a touch of the Orient to any outfit with our unique Tibet silver setSet includes necklace and braceletTraditional Tibet jewelry incorporates various colorful stones in their designs |
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Tibet Silver Bracelet with Flower Center (China) $18.99 Add a touch of the Orient to any outfit with this unique Tibet silver braceletBracelet features flower design in the centerTraditional Tibet jewelry likes to incorporate various colorful stones into their designs |
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Tibet Silver Bracelet with Flower Tube (China) $15.49 Add a touch of the Orient to any outfit with our unique Tibet silver braceletsBracelets with flower tube design in the centerTraditional Tibet jewelry likes to incorporate various colorful stones into their designs |
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Tibet Silver Hand-carved Tibetan-style Bracelet (China) $20.99 This handmade Tibetan silver bracelet features Tibetan-style carving and design that will add that special touch to any look. Let this gorgeous piece of jewelry become the next treasured piece of your collection. |
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Tibetan Silver Beaded Bangle Bracelet (China) $19.99 Unique Tibetan silver bangle made with tiny little beads. Tibetan silver is made of silver, white copper and other metal alloy to create its unique look. |
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Tibetan Silver Amethyst Chip Bracelet (China) $17.99 This beautiful bracelet features a centerpiece of Tibetan silver with an intricate design. The bracelet features vibrant purple amethyst chips and secures with a lobster claw clasp. |
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Tibetan Silver Garnet Bead Bangle Bracelet (China) $19.99 Add a classic Oriental touch to any outfit with this unique silver Tibetan bangle. This handmade bangle uses a unique mix of Tibetan silver beads and garnet stones to add just the right touch to any outfit. |
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Tibetan Silver Jade Bead Bangle (China) $21.41 Add a classic Oriental touch to any outfit with this unique Tibetan silver bangle. This handmade bangle uses a unique mix of Tibetan silver and jade beads to add just the right touch of style to any outfit. |
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Tibetan Silver White Jade Floral Bracelet (China) $18.49 This handmade Tibetan silver bracelet features a Tibetan-style floral design that will add that special touch to any look. Let this gorgeous piece of white jade jewelry become the next treasured piece of your collection. |
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Tibetan-style Silver Malachite Bead Bangle (China) $18.49 Enhance your wardrobe with this Tibetan-style sterling silver malachite bead bangleBracelet is crafted of 60-percent silver along with other metalsWorld jewelry is handmade by expert artisans in China |
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Tibetan-style Peridot Bracelet (China) $19.99 Dress up any ensemble with a unique braceletTibetan-style bracelet is crafted of Tibetan silver and peridotJewelry is finished with a sea star charm |
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Tibetan Silver Garnet Bracelet and Earrings Set (China) $19.49 Jewelry set includes bracelet and earrings accented with garnet stonesTraditional Tibet jewelry incorporates various colorful stones Bracelet is enhanced with Tibetan silver beads |
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Tibetan Silver Turquoise Necklace (China) $22.99 Add a classic Oriental touch to any outfit with this unique Tibetan silver necklace. This handmade necklace uses a unique mix of Tibetan silver and heart-shaped turquoise beads to add just the right touch to any outfit. |